Extinct Zongo ice caves

Global warming took a toll vanishing the glacier where Grutas de Zongo (Zongo ice caves) were located. Possibly these are the last images recorded of them.

Gonzalo Contreras del Solar
2 min readMar 28, 2021

This was a glacier in Bolivia close to La Paz city near the valley of Zongo, where many hydroelectric plants are located. The water from the first power plant is used by the following plant, and so on, cascading down the valley.

A moulin in an ice cave tinted in blue due to the glacier ice.
0176–10 — Zongo — Bolivia ++ I am pointing the camera to the ceiling of the cave; the hole is made by a small rock that starts melting a little hole which then becomes a Moulin.

It was 1989 winter (Southern hemisphere). I drove with my wife mid-morning up to the reservoir of the first power plant. We asked one of the guards’ guidance on how to get to the ice caves. He pointed out where to park our car from where we would locate easy the trail. The power company had built a channel that collected water from the glacier towards the reservoir.

Although the trail was gentle and almost flat as it was built along the water channel, the altitude at the bottom of the glacier that was 4850 mts (15912 feet), had its effect on us.

Layers of ice through centuries on the background and water stalactites foreground
0177–06_2 — Zongo — Bolivia ++ You can see the layers of glacier ice collected during centuries, contrasted with the water stalactites.

There were no signs or indications towards ice caves, however we finally found them not far from the water channel. It was about 2:30 PM, had crystal clear sky and the sun was burning our faces.

As we approached, we discovered that the cave floor was also of ice, extremely slippery. Had no crampons, so walked very slowly using my tripod as a support.

Strong blue sky due to the altitude contrasted with white stalactites
Co0177–11 — Zongo — Bolivia ++ The altitude gives this strong blue color of the sky contrasting the white snow of the glacier. This image is coming out of the ice cave.

This situation impaired me to take many pictures, as I had left the film and camera bag at the entrance. Did not want to risk walking back and falling in the middle of the ice cave.

Sadly, due to Global Warming today the glacier is extinct, just dusty rocks are the only remaining’s, and this ice caves from the distant past are gone. The same happened to a nearby ski slope.

Data
Rollei 6006
Lens Sonnar 150mm + Sky filter
120 Fujichrome Provia RDP 100 ASA film
GPS -16.282833, -68.105439

0176–10: 1 second at 5.6
0177–06_2: ½ at 4.0
Co0177–11: 1/60 at 32.0

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Gonzalo Contreras del Solar
Gonzalo Contreras del Solar

Written by Gonzalo Contreras del Solar

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Passionate photographer portraying Water since 1977. Sharing his stories while capturing the vital element on film & digital.

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