Sad Story of a beautiful lagoon

Story of a beautiful lagoon South of Santiago named Laguna de Aculeo, which has disappeared by long term drought period and apparently water mismanagement.

Gonzalo Contreras del Solar
5 min readMay 2, 2021

I first learned of Laguna de Aculeo in early summer 1994 when we did a horseback riding to the “Altos de Cantillana”, a mountain range 50 kilometers South of Santiago, that in winter is covered with snow for a short period.

Lagoon on blue and orange colors, with a passing boat on the background and tree silhouette on the foreground.
5161–27 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Power boat disturbing the peace.

The way up was steep, and you almost needed to crawl with the horses up the mountain. As we went along, we found water fountains where a group of friends were bathing. Further up the vegetation started to vanish, however arriving at the top, at an altitude of 2000 mts (6500 feet), there was an oak forest that had vantage view of the surrounding valleys and the far away city of Santiago that could hardly be seen due to the air pollution.

Horse passing by over flooded lagoon, trees with birds, some colored white and others black.
5162–06 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Peaceful end of day.

On the lower North Valley a silver colored lagoon could be seen catching my attention, it had 12 km2 (4.6 sq mi); however I would not visit it until a few months later when the winter and rainy season arrived.

Flooded blue lagoon with trees that lodge white feathered birds as well as black on a cold winter afternoon.
Co0335–15 — Laguna de Acuelo — Chile ++ Species coexistence.

My sister with her Spaniard family had just relocated to Chile and after lunch we decided to visit the lagoon. At that time there were few fences or limitations to walk towards the lake where I took photographs using my Nikon F3 and the Rollei 6006, both using Fuji Provia film. There was a nearby hill facing the lagoon from where I took pictures and would return many times in the years to come.

Black and white images of the lagoon where white and black birds coexist.
Lr0370–12 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Black & White coexistence

There was a road that circumvented the entire lagoon from where you could stop the car and walk towards the water, however in each visit, found new fencing and house development. At the end, the entire perimeter of the lake belonged to someone, who had had fenced or built tall walls.

Red sunset over lagoon, yellow sun just disappeared from the horizon and black silhouette of trees on the foreground.
Co0377–17_2 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Red peace.

Even on my favorite vantage point I found during the first visit, that was on the opposite side of road, was also fenced. I had to walk extensively around the fence, finding and opening at the far end that allowed me to walk back around a trail that passed over the vantage point.

My visits were mainly after lunch and stayed till sunset waiting for the perfect light. Sometimes while waiting I would have the company of a nearby dog, that would sit few meters away contemplating with me the majestic seen.

Black and white infrared image of lagoon, contrasting the white tint that some vegetation emit light that is captured by the film against the black tones of water and some trees.
0652–11 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Infrared image.

During a rainy winter the surrounding land was always flooded, covering a road and a football field (it can be seen on one of the images). Many birds would have their base at this far end, guess because they could find fish on the flooded area.

It was incredible to see trees full of white feathered and black feathered birds living together and shearing the same trees. Later at home after the film was developed, I found out that there was left plastic bottles floating over the water and some on the lake shore.

However, all the beauty was disturbed by the sounds of the water bikes, that ended close to sunset, when people would be fishing.

I continued visiting this place until 2006 and didn’t return again in more than a decade.

Flooded lagoon, fences and road, showing blue sky with pink clouds reflected over the water, as well the black trees silhouettes.
0653–12 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Flooding

It was only when I read a note on May 2018 that the lagoon had dried up entirely, I could not believe this so went back to my vantage point.

Blue and white water mirror with fishing pontoons, that get crowded by day end.
0825–09 — Laguna Aculeo — Chile ++ Day end fishing pontoons

The fence was still there, had to crawl under the barbwire and arriving to my favorite spot, I was deeply saddened to see a desertic view. All the people that had built pears and gardens around their house had lost all the attractiveness of the place. This last image shows what was left of the place from where I took all the wonderful lake sunsets, when it had water at full splendor.

Dessert view of what once was a beautiful lagoon, now dry grass grows where water used to live.
1086–15 — Laguna de Aculeo — Chile ++ Dessert view of what once was a beautiful lagoon.

I have reached different internet sources for the reason of why the water vanished, they mainly point to the effect of Global Warming with the lack of rain since 2010, also a probable cause of using its waters for avocado cultivation, as well as increased water usage by the nearby town of Paine.

Note: The name of the lagoon comes from the Mapuche term Acum-Leu, meaning “where the river ends”, however, sadly this place should now be called Desierto (“desert”) de Aculeo, “where the river ended”.

Nikon F3

5161–37
120 Fujichrome Provia RDP 100 ASA film
GPS -33.853119, -70.881997

5162–06
120 Fujichrome Provia RDP 100 ASA film
GPS -33.853119, -70.881997

Rollei 6006

Co0335–15
Lens Tessar 350mm
120 Fujichrome Provia RDP 100 ASA film
1/15 at 5.6
GPS -33.853119, -70.881997

0370–12
Lens Tessar 350mm
120 Ilford FP4 1000 ASA film
1/30 at 5.6
GPS -33.852703, -70.882492

Co0377–17_2
Lens Planar 80mm
120 Fujichrome Provia RDP 100 ASA film
1/30 at 5.6
GPS -33.853119, -70.881997

652–11
Lens Sonnar 150mm + Infrared filter 695
120 Maco IR820c 25 ASA film
2 Seg at 4.0
GPS -33.852669, -70.882331

0653–12
Lens Tessar 350mm + Sky filter
120 Velvia RVP 50 ASA film
1/8 at 5.6
GPS -33.85275, -70.882492

0825–09
Lens Tessar 350mm
120 Velvia 100F 100 ASA film
1/30 at 11.0
GPS -33.852508, -70.882694

1086–15
Lens Sonnar 150mm + Sky filter
120 Velvia RVP 50 ASA film
1/30 at 8.0
GPS -33.8531389, -70.882914

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Gonzalo Contreras del Solar
Gonzalo Contreras del Solar

Written by Gonzalo Contreras del Solar

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Passionate photographer portraying Water since 1977. Sharing his stories while capturing the vital element on film & digital.

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